Return to paradise  Japan trip of Sharon and Bob  May 2003

Dear Family and friends,

 

This “trip report” is a little long and a little late.  We have been so busy we just couldn’t seem to finish writing it!  In re-reading the pages below, it reminded us of just what a wonderful trip we had.   

 

May 23 to June 2, 2003

Returning to Japan was one of the more moving experiences of our lives.   Japan is a place filled with beauty:  The gardens are plentiful and superb, the food is fantastic and the people delightful.  Kevin’s side of the island (directly across from Tokyo in the rural, Ishikowa prefecture) is known for its pottery:  a style called Kutani in which pots are worked on by many individuals and fired many times.  For potters like ourselves, it was a delight to be in the heart of some of Japan’s finest works.  

 

Fri-Sat:  Travel  20 hours door to door.  It was so good to see Kevin and Shokawa again!  We arrived full of energy.  Returning to Kevin’s quiet town of Terai and his tranquil house with tatami mat floors and tile roof was like seeing an old friend.  We slept like babies.

 

Sun:  Rode our bikes to Takao’s Dorayaki (small, round Japanese sweet red bean-filled pancake) shop.   Was so good to see Takow again.  Then we peddled to Kamatzu (about 15 miles away) and enjoyed our first really fine sushi of this trip.  The road was very narrow and lined with rice paddies and  picturesque homes – many with flower gardens.   

 

We enjoyed dinner at the super market.  The sushi is better than anything at the finest US Japanese restaurant. 

 

Monday:  We peddled (Kevin was at work this day) to a huge discount store called “Plant-3” on the other side of the river (about 5 miles away).  That store was amazing – a Japanese version of COSTCO… but much cheaper.  Riding back we got totally lost.  Japanese streets are very contorted through rice paddies and tiny towns… with none at right angles and few through-streets.  We smiled as we watched the herons and egrets feast on endless frogs among the chartreuse rice in the flooded fields.  At a stop-light (at Sharon’s insistence because Bob was POSITIVE we had to go left..), Bob asked a young woman for directions – she spoke no English, but pulled her car onto the sidewalk to help us as best she could.  Sharon remembered we had a receipt for that local food market near Kevin’s house and showed it to her.... her face lit up as she understood and pointed us down the correct road... to the right, of course.  The Japanese people are so gentle, helpful and kind.  After that, we kept that receipt close at hand.

 

Monday evening, we were treated by dear Shoda to an Onsen (hot spring retreat).   Our room included a private hot-spring fed HOT tub (almost too hot to sit in!), private meditation garden, large (eight tatami mat) living and sleeping room and a 4.5 tatami dining area next to a private mediation moss garden.  All walls were sliding paper and there were magnificent Japanese paper hangings on the walls.  They provided two Yukata (a casual kimono):  one for daytime and dinner and the other for sleeping.   Dinner with Shoda, her husband and Kevin was a 14 course dinner of every imaginable sushi, sashimi and many dishes from crab, abalone, tie fish, tuna, sea scallops, shrimp, flounder, several soups, many vegetables, warm sake and Italian red wine.   The best was the Tie which is so tender and mild and caught locally.  We had our own geisha named Madeko who helped us with customs.  She understood some English but spoke none.  We were still jet-lagged, so we awoke at 4 AM and enjoyed our hot tub again. We were in a paradise…

 

Tuesday:  Breakfast was another 14 course meal with Madeko cooking on a small hibachi next to our table.   We soaked six times all together and felt so relaxed by the time noon rolled around we felt as soft as a bowl of ramen noodles.  This is a rural traditional Japanese Onsen which must get very few (if any at all) western visitors.  Perhaps that is why the owner came out to meet us.  We were so honored... and will remember that evening as long as we live.  Thank you so much, Shoda!

 

Tuesday afternoon, Miho and her friend Sachiko (Sachi) picked us up to visit the new Kutani pottery museum in beautiful Kaga by the sea.  The museum was spectacular with both ancient and new works that amaze and inspire.  The Kutani technique is to fire the porcelain at least three times and often many more times than that.  The first firing is a bisque, then at high temperature with just a clear, matt glaze.  Then over-glazes are painted on which are fired rather low (cone 016 or so) to maintain their brilliant colors.  The ideal is to show the natural beauty and serenity of Japan and its natural beauty.  People tend to be understated when shown at all, but birds and fish are often done with considerable detail.  Soshi is a Kutani painter of considerable skill and is also well-known for her art-object floor works of very interesting shapes and glazed to spectacular beauty.  Miho is also a potter who creates serene geometric patterns with soft colors.

 

We rented a car and Sachi rode back with Bob driving and Sharon rode with Miho.  They drive on the left side of the street and the cars are backwards from US standards so each time Bob tried to use turn signal, the wipers would flap madly from side to side!  Bob commented to Sachi that she was brave to ride with him.  Sachi looked at me and smiled, saying “Oh.. Sachi not brave; Sachi scared”!  They both laughed as Bob missed the exit.   They eventually got back safely, and Bob learned which side of the column the turn signal is on.  

 

The Japanese are very serious about driving safely.  Their streets are very narrow and people are always walking and children playing in them... so speed limits are very slow.  Typically city streets are 15 miles per hour and sometimes lower.  Country streets are up to 25.  It is very pleasant... there also are ditches with running irrigation water in them immediately at the edge of the roads... so speed it is very dangerous.  If a person is caught having had just one drink in the day they drive... just one beer hours before driving – they lose their license.  And if a foreigner is caught – they are sent IMMEDUIATLY back home.  They offer cab rides for people who drink can not drive.  Whenever we went to a place where alcohol was served – we walked or rode our bikes.  America can learn from this..

 

We drove to Kevin’s school where Karate class was in progress.  We watched as Kevin’s sensei, Takao lead two rows of dedicated students through rigorous drills.  Kevin is also in an evening Karate club which Takao also teaches.  He is a ball of solid muscle and is absolutely amazing to watch.   In one demonstration he JUMPed up into the air and slowly rotated to horizontal in mid air.  He came straight down on his toes and his fists landing with so much force the floor JUMPED like it was a huge trampoline.  We haven’t felt such vibrations in the floor since we attended Riverdance!

 

That evening, we rode our bikes to one of Kevin’s favorite eating places – the Yakitori bus!   This is 50’s vintage pink bus still resting on its very-flat tires.  The front 1/3 has been converted into a kitchen of sorts where the Yakitori are cooked on an open hibachi with his endless cigarette smoke adding the flavor.  We savored at least six varieties of these juicy (greasy) little shish kabobs made of all sorts of meats with veggies between.  Little tables have been set up between the original, worn vinyl seats and the atmosphere was steamy and the beer cold and delicious.  Sharon enjoyed a Chuhi made from soda and a sugar-cane based sake.. sort of like sparkly jet fuel! 

 

In one day, we were honored with a traditional Japanese breakfast, visited a pottery museum and ended the day with a Yakitori in a broken-down old bus!  We sure enjoyed the full range of absolute Japanese culture... with all seldom experienced by tourists.

 

Wednesday:  We picked up Shoda in our car and returned to Plant 3.  Last time we were on bikes, so this time we could shop!  We picked up the many fabulous items we saw the first time there including Bonsai scissors, trimming knives, more Jimbe, paint brushes and kitchen implements. 

 

Shoda guided us to the Flower Center – a botanical garden with many huge green houses holding tropical and flower plants.  There also was a little local craft shop there with some of the finest hand-made cloths and pottery imaginable.  One item really caught Sharon’s eye:  a hand made Hoppe coat made of naturally died fibers in the old Japanese style.  It was absolutely beautiful.  At the end of the trip, dear Shoda would overwhelm us with surprise when she presents this magnificent work to Sharon. 

 

Shoda then guided us to the Kutani pottery village on the outskirts of Terai.  Here is a pottery museum we visited last year – but our goal was the little of pottery stores.  We took no less than 100 photographs here of fabulous Kutani painted vessels of every kind.  So many ideas, we could spend our lifetime being inspired by them:  Flowers, birds form all over Japan, bunches of leaves, fish of every variety, scenes of countryside, scenes of mountains, scenes of ponds & streams, people fishing, swimming, walking, laughing... and it goes on endlessly.  We picked up some sushi sets to add to those we purchased last year... but mostly we looked.. and we saw.. and we learned.  In one store in which we purchased some small plates, an artist was there and offered to paint us a picture while we watched.  Shoda had said something to him – and we thank her for whatever it was!  He created a wonderful scene of flowers and leaves which we now smile at in our bedroom remembering that magical morning.   

 

We wore Shoda out running from store to store.  So we went to lunch at a tiny restaurant which served fabulous eel dishes.  We had not enjoyed eel until this meal – it was cooked in a wonderful sauce and was very delicious.  When we travel, we like to try everything local.  A part of the scenery:  an important part of the experience is the flavor of the place.  Whether it is Israel, Italy or Japan;  the flavors and aromas are remembered as much as the sights.

 

Later, we picked up Takao at his shop and he guided us to his brother in law’s studio in the nearby village.  He is a very famous painter of Kutani birds.  Later we would recognize his works in galleries up in Kenazawa.  His style is quite realistic, stressing the energy and free-spirit of birds of many types.  The colors are vibrant with clear over-glazes to accentuate the primary figure.  His work is absolutely beautiful.  It was an honor to meet him.

 

We then asked Takao to show us where the pottery supply store was.  It took some hand gestures and pointing to tools of the trade to communicate, but he took us to just the right place.  This store was like an old Japanese pharmacy with little bins full of many-colored powders and unusual clay tools in bins all over the store.  We found the  pestle used to mix over-glazes and bought three and some wonderful little brushes for Bob.  Sharon found several wonderful throwing tools like none we have ever seen in the states.  We did not buy the glaze powders – thinking we could pick them up when we got home.  WRONG!  They are not available in stores or the internet anywhere in the west!  Sachi is going to help us get them at that little shop in Terai and send them to us.  By mixing glazes at the time of use, they can blend the glazes to the thickness they desire, mix with other colors, add gelling agents and control the loading on their tiny brushes very carefully.  It is part of the reason Kutani style is so meticulous. 

 

That evening we walked to Shokawa and Miho’s home who hosted a party for us.  Kevin’s “English” club came to welcome us.  Kevin dreamed up a game in which the gifts we brought could be passed out (shirts with flags, Harley Davidson motorcycles and Betty-boop on them among other USA clothing).  It was so much fun seeing many of the same people we had met two years ago.  The party went on with laughter, eating wonderful foods prepared by each of the party-goers, drinking wine, beer (Yebisu is the BEST) and sake and generally having a fabulous time.  Moving around the room, we talked with everyone – and like every where in the world, everyone in the world has a story.  It was fun to meet and get to know another JET (Japanese English Teacher) named Kevin from the next village.  He is Irish and is steeping himself in the spiritual, magical and inspirational Japanese culture, (as our Kevin has).  We could have talked to everyone all night... but we just began to fade at midnight.  We heard the party went on until 2 with two guests sleeping there!  

 

Thursday:  Miho picked us and Shoda up to take us to her friend Sachiko’s studio.  She lives in a beautiful home with a kitchen table made from heavy, rough-hewn wood in a large, high-ceiling room.  Her art works are all around her home (she has won awards for some).  She then took us next door, where she has her studio.  There were works in progress in a back room, both painting and assembling.  There, she showed us how she mixes her paints using the same glass pestle and flat-bottomed glass mortar we saw the day before and she asked if Bob would like to try.  She did not have to ask twice!  She had just painted a lovely gold fish on a plate, so on the blank plate she gave Bob, he used one of her precision brushes to paint a goldfish like hers: following her example, and she coached him from time to time.  She helped him mix other colors and then helped come up with his name in Japanese characters for the bottom.  It turned out nice.  Two day later, we had the finished plate in our hands for she fired it immediately and gave it to Shokawa and Miho to give to us.  Everyone was so wonderful to us.... 

 

Miho took us to a “pancake” house for lunch.  These are common in Japan, and are nothing like an American pancake.  Called Okonomi-yaki and made from chopped cabbage, meats of any sort you want, vegetables, flower and an egg.  They are grilled at your table and smothered in delicious okonomi-yaki sauce, dried bonito powder, ao-nori (green-seaweed) and mayonnaise (which is much richer than anything KRAFT ever made).  As Sharon seemed to do so often this trip:  we headed to the super market again to pick up the special flower, sauces and powders.

 

After lunch, Shoda took us to Toshi’s Butsudan making shop.  These are Buddhist shrines intend for the home and made from carved wood which is then lacquered and gold-leafed.  The scenes are timeless stories about nature & serenity and are used for individual or family meditation.. They are also beautiful works of art.  Toshi showed us pieces in each step of the process.  The wood carving is amazing to see up close.  Like so much in Japanese artistry, different artisans do individual steps in the work.  Then, Toshi invited Bob to try his hand at gold-leafing!  It turned out okay – very smooth and bright, but with a few little cracks on the side.  It was something that will be done on some future art project we are sure.  The openness we experienced was amazing everywhere we went.

 

That evening, we drove out to Kevin’s pottery teacher where Sharon got to throw pots on his wheel and see how he uses his throwing sticks.  His home is like so many there – sitting on a tiny plot of land surrounded by rice paddies – like a heron’s nest in the march.. serene and beautiful just in the setting.  In Japan, the wheels turn anti-clockwise... while in the US, they turn clockwise.  So Sharon switched the wheel direction and threw some nice pots.. he was so amazed to see someone throw “backwards”!  He gave us two tools and a beautiful platter.          

 

That evening, we took Shoda and her husband to dinner at a very fine restaurant where we again had at least 12 courses.  Like many meals in Japan, the ordering takes place as the meal progresses – adding this and that as your tastes change.  The food and conversation was wonderful and the food characteristically wonderful.  We walked home in the cool of the evening.  We were invited to go fishing with Shoda’s husband the next day in the Sea of Japan.  We agreed, worrying about the time (had to meet him at 5, and it was now nearing midnight) but how often would this opportunity arise?  So we agreed and padded home to a quick night’s sleep.  When 4:30 arrived and Kevin woke us... we just groaned and asked that he call to tell them we were toooooo tired. 

 

Friday:  We trained to Kenazawa with Kevin.  Trains in Japan (like almost everywhere in the world except the US) are wonderfully convenient.  They are fast, on time, clean and safe.  But if you do not have an interpreter, you are in trouble in Japan.  All of the many maps on the walls giving detailed directions are all in Japanese and absolutely unintelligible to us.  It is a feeling of absolute illiteracy.  But with Kevin, we were fine.  We walked miles and miles seeing museums, and the shopping district, and enjoyed lunch at little restaurant.  His was a tour of the modern, hip part of this relatively large city.  The next day we would return for a tour of the historic tour of this once power-center of an influential family.

 

Returning home, we ate at the little restaurant Shoda had taken us to two years earlier.  They remembered us and we remembered the specific foods we had enjoyed there.  This establishment was wooden and dark and filled with the aromas of years of cooking.  The center was a cooler area filled with all sorts of fresh sea foods – all caught that morning.  You point to various fish and they prepare it to your liking.  Sharon asked for Ginger ale and one of the chefs said they did not have it.. then, hesitating a moment changed his mind and disappeared for a few moments as he ran out the back door to get some from a vending machine down the street.   Just imagine that in America!  The night was full of more amazing food and rolling laughter and all of it friendly.  They were honored we visited them and even more so that we remembered their fabulous cooking two years ago.  This village sees almost no Gigene (non-Japanese) and the few that do come through certainly don’t find this little restaurant.  Our enthusiasm to try everything they offered made them laugh and become ever more outgoing.   We were never sorry we said “yes” to their suggestions as we enjoyed so many dishes.

 

Saturday:   Miho and Shokawa drove us to Kenazawa for the “Professor Shokawa historical tour”.  Shokawa is one of those remarkably intelligent and gentle people you meet only rarely in a lifetime.  He is soft-spoken with a wonderful sense of  humor.  He comes from a family that has been in the pottery business for generations (a picture in his traditional home of his father with Hirohito attests to this).  Miho (who you have read about several times before in this letter) is a lovely woman with a great sense of humor and grace.  She jokes wonderfully and is always ready with a quip about Kevin.  Both of them felt like family since the beginning of this visit. 

 

On the way to Kenazawa, we stopped at a wonderful antique shop which was full of fabulous desks and apothecary cabinets and abacuses and kimono’s and on and on... but then we spotted an unexpected treasure:  in the back room, there were a dozen enthusiastic potters!!!  They were working in fine porcelain and making interesting shaped drinking glasses, pots for bonsai with wonderful little feet and table-top curious shaped vases.  In another room a fellow was throwing pots on his wheel.  All were happy to show us their tools and their techniques.  We shot lots of pictures and took notes. 

 

In Kenazawa, we wandered down the old Geisha streets and visited a merchant’s house now set up as a museum.  Here we saw how those fabulous many-drawer cabinets we saw in the antique shop were used.  In the back room, there was a gold-leaf making section where the old tools were displayed.  Basically, the gold is hammered with HUGE wooden hammers between sheets of parchment.  As the gold becomes thinner and thinner, they are stacked together like a book held by what look like two dual tipped chop-sticks tied together at their ends, pinching the pages together as the hammering continues.

 

We had mentioned to Shokawa that we were interested in ancient musical instruments – so he guided us to one of the very few Shamisen makers left in Japan.  These are the three-stringed instruments of Geisha fame that are also referred to as Japanese Banjos because they have a leather face.  This little shop is also a school.. and after some negotiations by Miho and Shokawa, we were allowed upstairs to hear an ongoing lesson.  They served us green tea in an eight tatami mat waiting room and some of the wonderful Japanese sweet biscuits.  We could see into a tiny room in the back where two men worked cross-legged among large piles of wood chips and tools hand carving these beautiful works of art.  Eventually we all tried playing these amazingly expensive instruments (a practice instrument is about $5000).  Their buzzing sound is melancholy and wistfully beautiful.   One of the workmen came out to give a short lesson as well on striking and fingering techniques.  Bob found the plans in the internet and sent for them...  one may be in our future.

 

We enjoyed lunch at an “Italian” restaurant that was no more Italian than any of the other wonderful Japanese restaurants we ate at.. except they did offer tomato sauce on the roman noodles and had Italian wine on their menu.  The food, being Japanese, was of course delicious as we ate in the open air courtyard.

 

In the afternoon we wandered to the Ohmicho fish market (http://www.bento.com/phgal5.html).  This is not like any seafood store in America.  It was built like an alley-way with stalls all along the two block length.  The fish and crabs and shellfish (some live, some not) were stacked high on tables of chopped ice.  With all that fish, there was no fishy smell because all this was caught locally that morning.  Being there at 5 PM it was sale time where everything falls to half price with the merchants standing on little boxes and YELLING their new prices among teaming throngs of shoppers.  Miho bought several local fish including about two pounds of fresh scallops for about $4.00!   On the edge of the market was a tiny shop selling Shoo-Cream.  There are cream-puffs that are filled as you buy them with an absolutely delicious custard-whipped cream filling. We munched on these as we walked back to the car after another perfect day.

 

We returned to Miho and Shokawa’s lovely home for a sushi hand-rolls dinner of the fish just purchased in Kenazawa.  In Japan, each household has a rice-cooker.  It is kept always full of their delicious sticky rice.  When it is time to eat it, some is scooped out and mixed with a powdered vinegar.  Miho piled the platter high with slices of the many fish, shrimp and scallops with heaps of rice, pickled veggies and sheets of nori.  We spent the evening in delightful conversation, sipping wine and sake and eating continuously on the bounty before us.   

 

Sunday:   The day started with Shoda surprising Sharon with the gorgeous hand made Happi coat we had admired at the flower garden!  Her generosity was so touching.  Over these three years, she has watched over Kevin’s as his landlord and become his friend and supporter. So many of Kevin’s friends in Terai have become like extended family. 

 

For lunch, we returned to okonomi-yaki “pancake” house for one last delicious treat... Then, sadly, we drove to the airport after returning the car (unscathed).   We enjoyed a snack as we waited for our plane.  Waved goodbye to Kevin and Shoda and began our journey home. 

 

The people of Japan are the most friendly, gentle and spiritual we have ever met.  It was a perfect trip full of experiences, sights and flavors.  We got to know some of our new friends much better and returned full to overflowing with pottery and art ideas.   Kevin will be changing jobs in September.  He will be an hour south of Terai in an even smaller village.  When we return next year, we will surely return to see our dear friends in Terai.  We sincerely hope we will see some of them in Atlanta and return some of the hospitality we were shown.   

 

As we exited the customs section of the Atlanta Airport we had with us Soy sauce, Japanese mayonnaise, crackers, okonomi-yaki sauce, dried bonito powder, special okonomi flower, pottery, pottery tools, Japanese wardrobes.... and one lost Japanese grandmother.  She was coming to Atlanta to see her son and was so lost among the confusing and rude American airport officials.   It was striking how uncooperative and unfriendly the Americans can be compared to the Japanese that feel it their honor to help strangers and take pride in their jobs.  Hartsfield Airport was crazy – with huge lines to pass through customs.  Only three workers and thousands of people.  Lots of useless “employees” standing around talking and goofing off – but almost no one working.  This sweet Japanese woman was behind us and was very tired and concerned about how she would meet up with her son.  So we adopted her and walked her through all the hoops and rode the train with her.  As we finally reached the escalator where passengers are met, she worried out loud “oh... what will I do if he isn’t there?”  We just smiled at her and softly said “then we will take you home with us”!   It felt good to return some of the Japanese hospitality that had been lavished on us for 10 days.  Her son was at the top of the escalator.

 

Since returning, we have purchased a rice cooker, had hand-rolled sushi many times, wear Jimbe’s most of the time and both of us have made many pots inspired by our return to one of the most lovely, friendly and inspiring places we have ever seen.

 

Love and safe travels to you all,

Bob and Sharon